![]() Problems include watering-related abuse, too much or too little light, and fertilisation issues. If you're interested in training your specimen to grow up a moss pole or trellis, scroll down to the 'Maintenance' section.ĭirectly pinpointing yellow leaves is quite hard due to the many different issues that could be at fault. Click on this link and scroll down to the 'Orchid Fertilisers' section for our recommended brands and products!Īs the juvenile growths mature, they'll produce aerial roots which will attach to anything nearby. Although typical soil-borne fertilisers will still benefit its health, only the root caps will absorb the nutrients, meaning that excess fertiliser salts may build up after a while. Spray the solution onto the leaf's topside to provide the two critical ingredients for good quality blooms (nitrogen & potassium). Orchids have open stomata, meaning that fertilisation can be achieved via foliar feeds. Gently hose the foliage down from time to time to hydrate the leaves and keep the dust levels down. If the surrounding saturation is too low or the heat too high, its juvenile leaf-tips may start to brown over and curl, especially in direct sunlight. These issues are commonly down to either too much soil moisture, an incorrect soil medium, too little light, or foliage that has allowed to remain wet for long periods.Ĭreate a humidity tray to provide a moist and stable environment for your plant. Over-watering symptoms include lower yellowing of leaves, a rapidly declining stem, flower loss and a rotten base. Never allow the intense sun or forgetfulness to take over, as both will result in a premature flower loss and a weakened specimen. ![]() Under-watering symptoms include sudden flower loss, wilted leaves, deformed growth and a gradual decline in health. Reducing irrigations is necessary throughout the swing of autumn and winter to force the specimen into its dormancy. Those situated in darker areas will be at risk of root rot, along with the minimal chance of producing blooms.ĭuring the spring and summer months, be sure to keep the soil relatively moist, allowing the top third to dry out in between waters. ![]() The ideal setting would be within a few metres of an east or west-facing window, or in a setting that a newspaper can be read without the use of artificial lighting. Although they can withstand short periods of direct light, it's essential to keep them sufficiently hydrated to downplay the risk of dehydration and sun-scorch. Vanilla Orchids do best in well-lit environments without excessive sunlight or dry air. Keep an eye out for Mealybugs that'll locate themselves in the cubbyholes of the stems & foliage.Repot every three years using an Orchid Bark & a slightly larger transparent pot, during the spring.You're most likely able to achieve flowers once the vines surpass 3m in length. As Vanilla Orchids take several years to produce flowers, you'll have to make do with a foliage-only specimen.Scroll down to 'Dormancy Period & Achieving Flowers' for information about their blooming process and all-important winter care.Supplement with an Orchid-labelled fertiliser once a month, via foliar or liquid feed.Reduce hydrations further during the autumn & winter to increase the chance of flowers. Maintain evenly moist soil, allowing the top third to dry out in between waters.Never place a specimen in the excessive sun or within three metres of an operating heat source due to the heightened risk of dehydration. Vanilla Orchids are best suited in bright, indirect settings with up to minimal sunlight.Need the answer to a specific plant query? Book a 1-to-1 video call with Joe Bagley, the website's friendly author, to overcome and address your niggling problem! Available on iMessage, WhatsApp, Facebook Messenger & more. Origins, Temperature, Propagation, Repotting & Toxicity.Copyright: The American Orchid Society (AOS).
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